The moon phase watch can be said to be the most romantic function in the watchmaking world. When the mini moon phase disk on the dial shows the synodic profit and loss and the stars are changing, it means that another month has passed. Although the moon phase function of modern watches may focus more on displaying brand technology and aesthetics, a hundred years ago, moon phase timepieces had a solid impact on the wearer’s life.
The origin of the moon phase watch
The predecessor of the moon phase watch can be traced back to the “Antikythera Mechanism” around 150 BC. It was a bronze instrument made by the ancient Greeks to observe the movement of celestial bodies. There are more than 30 gears in the device. After entering the date, The position of the sun, moon or other planetary bodies can be calculated. The same level of complexity did not come back until the advent of the astronomical clock in the 14th century.
Reproduction of the Antikythera Mechanism.
Until the 18th century AD, ocean navigation, maritime commerce and even military activities were frequent. The most important thing that affected the lives of sailors on board was the moon phase, which could change the rise and fall of the tide. Accordingly, the portable moon phase clock was born. You can grasp the daily changes of the moon by using the disk and provide guidance for all sailors.
The world’s first moon phase watch
The pioneer was Abraham-Louis Breguet, the legendary watchmaker and founder of Breguet watches. In 1794, he invented the self-winding pocket watch for the first time with a moon phase function, which was also designed with a human face and moon, and became the No. 5 pocket watch handed down from generation to generation in the history of clocks and watches.
The legendary No. 5 pocket watch launched by Breguet in 1794.
After World War I, watches began to become popular. In 1925, Patek Philippe launched the first perpetual calendar watch with a moon phase display. People could finally “wear” the moon on their hands. After the quartz crisis in the 1980s, Blancpain used the moon phase function to revive the mechanical watch craze and launched the smallest complex watch with a full calendar moon phase display function at the time. The alluring “Beauty Moon” design subsequently appeared, and the moon phase watch Since then it has become a romantic miracle in the watchmaking world and is highly sought after by the world.
Moon phase watch principle
The operating principle of the moon phase watch is inseparable from the ancient calendar cycle. In the past, people found that the moon would wax and wane repeatedly every 29 days or so (actually 29 days, 12 hours and 45 minutes). Therefore, a lunar calendar was developed based on the moon phase cycle, every 29 or 30 days. for one month. The initial production of the moon phase watch was based on this, taking an average of 29.5 days as a cycle. The gear has 59 teeth that are multiples of this cycle and advances one tooth every day. With the cloud cover blocking the window, it simulates the new moon, quarter moon, Full moon and other realistic moon phases in the night sky.
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Since the synodic moon cycle is actually 29.5306 days, the initial daily error of the moon phase watch is about 0.03 days. After more than 32 months, an error of 1 day will occur. The wearer must adjust it regularly, which is more inconvenient. However, with the development of watchmaking technology, Progress has led to the emergence of a 135-gear design that can accurately simulate the trajectory of the moon, reducing the error of the moon phase table to one day in a century or even a thousand years.
Modern moon phase table
When it comes to today’s moon phase watches, of course the pioneer Breguet is indispensable. The Reine de Naples series is inspired by the bracelet watch designed by Mr. Breguet for Napoleon’s sister, Queen Caroline Murat. It is equipped with a classic oval-shaped case. Among them, the 8908 moon phase watch is decorated with Tahitian mother-of-pearl dial and dial. There are 128 diamonds inside and outside the circle, following the brand tradition, and the moon is also engraved with a mysterious face, shining brightly in the star space.
Blancpain
The new Blancpain Ladybird Colors moon phase watch is also decorated with the classic star-shaped beauty mark moon. This design originated from the beauty mark makeup that European aristocrats were obsessed with in the 18th century. The most interesting thing is that Blancpain always carved a different face for each moon phase. , or closing the eyes or smiling, the numerical hour markers and diamonds are arranged from large to small, which shows the ingenuity of the details.
Patek Philippe
Patek Philippe is unparalleled in its research on grand complications. In 2023, PP reinvented the most complex Master Chime watch in the history of the brand, debuting in a white gold and rose gold two-color case. The Paris hobnail pattern on the side of the case sets off the central decoration of the dial. , the reversible double-sided watch design also presents more than 20 complex functions. The front includes information such as moon phase, time in two places, alarm, and timekeeping function. The back of the watch has an instantaneous perpetual calendar and 24-hour display function. The timekeeping music also uses hammers to strike three gongs to produce more colorful music. Although the moon phase is no longer the highlight of this watch, it has a unique charm when the synodic profit and loss echoes the elegant appearance and melodious music.
Piage
Piaget’s first moon phase watch in the Altiplano series uses mother-of-pearl as the dial. It uses exquisite carving techniques to cut out radial lines and overlapping arcs. The aventurine moon phase dial creates a starry night sky. It is equipped with a 580P movement that can reach an error value of 122 years and only 1 day. The oscillating weight on the back of the watch is painted with a crescent moon pattern in blue lacquer, which contrasts with the bright moon on the dial.
Vacheron Constantin
The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Moon Phase Retrograde Calendar watch not only has a moon phase display, but is also the first watch in this series to introduce a retrograde calendar. When the blue date hand indicates that the scale is full, it will instantly jump back to the starting point, 6 The moon phase window at the o’clock position is surrounded by a scale from 0 to 29½. This is the “moon age” function, which can accurately display the moon’s cycle and only needs to be adjusted once every 122 years. It perfectly demonstrates the brand’s iconic aesthetics and exquisite watchmaking craftsmanship. .
Longines
The Longines Flagship Heritage watch re-enacts the brand’s classic work from the 1950s, and now launches a version with a moon phase function, decorated with a retro satin-brushed dial, shorter chamfered lugs, and the Caravel sailing ship engraved on the back of the case to echo the series name. , adding elegance to it. When the moon rises, you can use the moonlight on your wrist to rush to the new year.
