Dior 2024 Autumn and Winter Analysis: The birth of Miss Dior, from the haute ivory tower to the crowd|Paris Fashion Week

In the past, so-called “fashion” existed only among upper-class women who could afford custom-made clothes. Until 1967, the first fashion series “Miss Dior” led by Marc Bohan, Dior’s then creative director, concentrated the essence of custom-made craftsmanship into fashion design, leading Dior’s works to enter the wardrobe of ordinary women with a sense of youth and design. Dior Women’s Creative Director Maria Grazia Chiuri, who has always paid to women’s awareness, has attention used the brand’s history as a theme to create a series of easy-to-put-on, take-off and highly practical series this season, writing a new note for the contemporary women’s liberation movement. .

“Dior in the world” Jisoo

Jisoo, Dior’s favorite daughter, almost without surprise attends the shows every season, becoming the reason why the spotlight is constantly flashing and kicking off the Paris Fashion Week. Jisoo’s show look this season is a black suit jacket paired with pants and skirts, combined with a blue and white polka dot tie and a bow double braid hairstyle, showing the pretty side of the Dior woman.

This season, Dior’s creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri used her designs to reflect the transitional period in the late 1960s when the haute couture ateliers stepped out of the ivory tower and entered the public eye for ready-to-wear clothing. It was also an important moment in the brand’s history when women were liberated through clothing.

About the origin of “Miss Dior”

In 1967, Dior, then helmed by Marc Bohan, branched out for the first time to produce an independent ready-to-wear series, Miss Dior, which was also a revolutionary innovation at the time. “I’m fascinated by this collection and Mr. Bohan’s history,” Chiuri said. “He was really visionary for that time, because haute couture was having a hard time. They were only connected to these couture clients—and women were changing. Not all creative directors were that visionary. , able to understand the new era and new women.”

Hand-drawn graffiti: the roots of your brand

Therefore, this season, the large letters “Miss Dior” that are eye-catchingly printed in handwriting on coats, A-line skirts and trench coats come from the precious brand historical archives and were created to celebrate the opening of the Miss Dior Paris boutique in 1967. A hand-painted advertising artwork was produced that reaffirms Mr. Dior’s vision of dressing “women of all shapes and sizes.”

In a sense, liberating women through clothing has always been Maria Grazia Chiuri’s goal. The jackets and coats on this season’s show are waist-cut, the trousers are loose-fitting, and the low-heeled boots and shoes are designed for easy walking; in addition, the double-faced cashmere mini skirt suit is paired with a sleeveless top, a black turtleneck, and a swaying Gold pendant necklace, accompanied by the melody of Serge Gainsbourg and Jane Birkin’s “Je T’aime… Moi Non Plus” in the background (this song was also originally released in 1967), the whole show was full of 60s elements.

Exploring women and space through art

This season, she invited Indian artist Shakuntala Kulkarni to create a bamboo armor-like art installation for the show, and specially conceived the presentation method of each model walking in the exhibition hall, so that the clothing and the on-site installation can complement each other. Screening, starting a dialogue between fashion and art.

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